Switzerland 2023

Switzerland brings to mind many things for different people. For myself, I think of beautiful mountains (of course with hiking and skiing), chocolates, neutrality, and the United Nations Institute for Training and Research (Unitar). Didn’t expect that last one, did you?

Back story: Unitar - I had a friend who worked for Unitar in Geneva many years ago. His mission was to develop training material for fighting wars under the Geneva Convention. I even had a tour of his small office in a very plain building that was on a small hill looking out over Lake Geneva).

On an earlier visit to Switzerland many years ago with a friend from Germany, we stayed two nights in Zermatt. Back then Zermatt was fairly small and one had to take the train into town. The few vehicles in Zermatt were small electric cars or trucks, often with small trailers.

Zermatt these days has grown to be quite a busy ‘town’ surrounded by the beautiful Alps with the famous Matterhorn overlooking everything. During winter it is the center of a huge snow skiing/boarding region. During the summer it is also packed with regular tourists, hikers, and all the people who are needed to support so much activity.

Zermatt is still considered car-free. If one must drive, there is a huge parking garage in Täsch just one town down from Zermatt. From there people take a shuttle train into Zermatt. I came in from Germany by train, connecting at the Visp station. There I changed to a train that came directly into Zermatt. The Zermatt train station was only a few blocks from our hotel so it was very easy (be thankful for wheeled luggage!)

As for train travel in Switzerland, easy and, if planned ahead, not too expensive. First class will get you larger seats and on ‘some’ trains, internet, food options, and/or AC power (read the small print - I went very hungry on my routes). A great feature is that if you miss a connection due to your train being late or something out of your control, you can simply catch the next available train and still use your original ticket when the conductor stops by - no worries, especially if not traveling during a peak time.

Trains in Switzerland tend to be on time (small exception, leaving Zermatt there was a rockslide on the tracks so we were bused around the slide and then finished on the train down to Visp. Our luggage was put on another bus - I came to understand that this was normal as they really pack the people into the busses and avoid the luggage with passenger delays - it all just works).

However, all is not the same throughout Europe. Leaving Stuttgart, Germany to head to Zermatt, I got to the train station to find out my train had been canceled. Thanks to my good friend whom I stayed with while in Germany, he helped me figure out what was happening and made sure I got onto the next train out and knew what to do. It was explained that, since Germany is in the middle of the European train systems, it is very busy and therefore often has construction or track issues. Delayed or canceled trains are not that uncommon. Switzerland though is still the pinnacle of on-time and efficient train service.

An interesting aspect, my train that crossed from Germany to Switzerland had a crew change just past the border. The German crew wasn’t bad or anything. But the Swiss crew - night and day difference. Hard to explain it but they were very friendly and attentive.

Zermatt has a few grocery stores of which one has a decent selection (remember this is a ‘small’ town). Eating out is a very different story. There are options from McDonalds to the most extravagant restaurants you can imagine. The hotels also range from modest to almost royal palace-like accommodations. Just be prepared to pay!

One more item, during the summer the way to get around is to buy a Peak Pass. If you were to pay for the train each time you used it or for any of the lifts and other transport options (you will use many), it would cost you a fortune. The Peak Pass is great and is good for whatever number of days you buy it for, covering all the major transport that we used. With the pass, we never had to buy tickets. wait in lines or spend extra money to get around. For skiers, you will need to check into additional options.

Hardware

  • Nikon Z 6 II mirrorless camera
  • Nikkor Z 24-70mm 1:4 S lens
  • Nikkor AF-S DX ED 55-200mm 1:4-5.6G lens
  • Nikkor FTZ II lens adapter
  • iPhone 12 Pro

Software

  • Apple Photos v9.0
  • Pixelmator Pro v3.5.1
  • Topaz Photo 2.12
  • Topaz Sharpen AI v4.1.0
  • Affinity Photo 2.2.1
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VIEWING HELP

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WEB PAGE NOTES

For this trip, I normally generated two maps per day showing:

  1. the actual hikes and lifts, etc on a topo map
  2. a satellite view showing the area we were in and highlighting key points in that view so that you can see where we were relative to all the other hikes.
I also have more links than normal as I found many very good websites. If you want to learn more about any of this, I encourage you to explore.

As so much of this trip was about elevations and challenges (yes, even I was challenged on some of the hikes), I tried to include some interesting related facts for each day’s activities. Plus I have gathered information on where we ate lunches and dinners where possible (all were great except for one - to be revealed).

JOIN ME ON MY 2023 TRIP TO THE ZERMATT REGION IN SWITZERLAND
Restaurants
  • Dinner: Information to be added


Let’s start this wonderful week of fresh air, hiking in beautiful mountains, eating wonderful foods, and just living well!

Once I got off the train, our guide Pierre (from France) met me and escorted me to the hotel even though my train was late. Our group met in the lobby of our hotel (Hotel Phoenix - see the departure page for more details) for a drink, introductions, and a preview of what we would be doing this week. Our group was small (just 3 of us plus our guide) so we were basically a family right away - nice.

We headed off for our welcome dinner which was very relaxing and tasty. We retired to our rooms before it was very late as we were getting up early to have a good start for a full day of hiking. This was the first of many excellent meals (we only had one bad experience all week - more later).

Of course, being who I am, I did what is called by some a ‘Jimmer’ in my hotel room. I was unpacking and started to plug in my electronics. In Switzerland, they have a 3-prong round type of plug. For some reason, our hotel did not have plates over the outlets which are used to ensure you plug things in correctly. Of course, I was having problems. When the plug finally went in - pop. The power in the room was off (and I blew out my travel multi-outlet item). I looked around but there was no electrical box in the room. The hallway still had power and I found the box there - locked of course. When I went to the desk, sign said they were closed for the night. What a start to the trip!

By then I was planning to just wait it out. I had a big battery that I could use to charge things with and was too tired to read. But I did call the number at the desk just in case. It turns out the managers live off-premises. They did try to reach the front desk person but the person was long gone and not reachable.

I was ready to settle down in my nice dark room when someone knocked on my door. It was one of the managers who had left their house and hiked over to the hotel. He was able to reset the circuit and I carefully plugged things in correctly this time. I felt really bad making him come all the way back to the hotel (it was around 11 pm) but he was super nice about it. By the way, everywhere else I looked had face plates on the outlets which would have made it impossible (in theory) to do what I did.

So, with a little bit of guilt and lots of gratitude, I hit the sack looking forward to my first hike in the morning.

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Looking up at the Matterhorn from Zermatt along the Vispa River


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James Hunkins

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